An investigation into the spring wardrobe, the second chapter of the Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2022 Men’s Collection by Virgil Abloh will be delivered to stores in March 2022. The collection exemplifies the Men’s Artistic Director’s anthropological approach to the intermediary clothing line. “My philosophy is very much informed by the clothes that people actually wear. What I do is an analysis of a generation: what do people buy and why do they wear it? That question naturally creates an equal interest in tradition as it does in changing tradition. But it’s also about challenging myself and exploring different land. That is creative freedom,” he said, explaining his pre-collection procedure.
Built by Le Corbusier – one of Virgil Abloh’s design heroes – the Firminy complex in Firminy near Lyon plays backdrop to the collection. In a photographic dialogue, the creative practices of the designer and the architect resonate in a union between the functional and radical. Through this lens, the codes of sportswear and workwear freely fuse in a sense of generational suiting. Tailored trousers are imbued with baggy volume and worn with blousons in place of a blazer: a tonal black wool varsity jacket with embossed Monogram leather sleeves and leather logo graphics, a white leather and shearling bomber jacket, or a bottle green biker jacket with leather panelling. Padded jackets – including a turquoise puffer quilted in the Louis Vuitton flower pattern – observe a similar purpose.
Tailoring interprets grown-up codes through relaxed cuts and light materials, such as in a stripy blue suit with the signature pin-hook closure created by Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton. Its stripes – identical to those that historically lined the Maison’s trunks – are echoed in suit compromised of a matching black baseball jacket and trouser. Similarly, the idea of the new suit is proposed in a matching black denim jacket and trouser with blue contrast pockets and Strings Attached®. Karakoram – the zig-zag pattern named for the mountain range – manifests as needle-punch, in embossment, and in tonal jacquards, as well as a satin souvenir bomber.
The idea of the three-piece suit takes new shapes in formal silhouettes composed tonally of jackets, trousers and wrap skirts. Shirts swap places with roll-necks. The twin-set is evoked through matching hoodies and zip cardigans knitted in dégradé, inducing the eternal scent of teen spirit also lionised in a stripy multi-colour mohair Monogram cardigan. A symbol of the switching and fusing of dress codes, Keepalls and small leather goods patchwork the colours, patterns and materials of the collection, while LV Trainers with strap detailing – rendered in a wealth of colourways – take over from the traditional idea of a formal shoe.
“Don’t let your day job define you.” –Virgil Abloh.
